The sky was a beautiful blue with big puffy clouds when my friend Emily and I rode on top of the bus to the village of Bugnay. Emily and I met on my first trip to Africa when I was 19 and because internet we have been able to stay in touch these past ten years. A few months ago Emily asked me if she could come for a short visit during her winter break from teaching english in China. It was wonderful to see Emily again and take her on a short adventure up in the Kalinga mountains. In the back of my mind I had something in my mind that would make this trip extra special for me.
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| The road to bugnay is very beautiful! |
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| We got the front seats sitting on top of rice bags and holding on tightly as we cruised around corners & over bumps. |
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| Emily got to soak in the beautiful mountain views |
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| A very typical sight along they way |
Once in Bugnay, we took a short drive & then a hike further up in the mountains to the village of Buscalan. Every since arriving in Tabuk I had heard about an old woman who was the last Kalinga tattoo artist. I was adamant
that I would never get one, however, as I have lived here and saw the beauty of the place and the people, I softened to the idea.
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| Brenda, our guide and midwife at the Bugnay Maternity clinic |
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| The hike there was beautiful and difficult with steep stairs to climb |
Once arriving we met Whang Od the famous kalinga tattoo artist. At 93 years old she had wrinkles to match her age, but was strikingly beautiful. I felt comfortable with her and knew that I wanted to have a piece of her art work. I felt it would be an honor to be apart of this ancient tradition.
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| I picked out a picture of one I liked and she drew part of it on. Before I knew it she was starting to tap. There was no going back at that point. |
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| When I told her where I wanted it, she warned me that the side of the foot is very painful. She was not lying! |
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| At the top of the foot I could hand the pain and even took a few pictures. |
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| As she rounded the corner it became much more painful. It was hard to focus or watch. |
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| The pain just increased until I couldn't look at all. If I would have kept looking I might have moved my foot away without thinking. |
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| The taping had a definite rhythm and at the top kind of felt like bee stings. I can't really describe the pain on the sides. |
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| I am happy to say that during the whole process I didn't shed one tear. It was quite fascinating. The whole tattoo took about an hour to complete. She used a thorn and ash for ink. |
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| The finished work directly after she was done. I love it! |
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| Whang Od and myself after she finished. |
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| The sun was setting as we hiked out. I couldn't put my shoes on, so I had to make the hike barefoot. But the pain didn't set in until a little bit later so the hike wasn't so bad. |
Getting a tattoo is something I never thought I would do. But things change, people change and I change. I think I will always view this tattoo as a sign that change is OK and something that God allows for. I love the beauty, adventure & remembrance that is wrapped up in this tattoo and some day when I am old and it is faded I know I will still remember this time and this place. I am sure my grandkids will enjoy my tales of adventure as well :)
