Beauty & Adventure

The sky was a beautiful blue with big puffy clouds when my friend Emily and I rode on top of the bus to the village of Bugnay. Emily and I met on my first trip to Africa when I was 19 and because internet we have been able to stay in touch these past ten years. A few months ago Emily asked me if she could come for a short visit during her winter break from teaching english in China. It was wonderful to see Emily again and take her on a short adventure up in the Kalinga mountains. In the back of my mind I had something in my mind that would make this trip extra special for me. 

The road to bugnay is very beautiful!

We got the front seats sitting on top of rice bags and holding on tightly as we cruised around corners & over bumps. 

Emily got to soak in the beautiful mountain views 

A very typical sight along they way 

Once in Bugnay, we took a short drive & then a hike further up in the mountains to the village of Buscalan. Every since arriving in Tabuk I had heard about an old woman who was the last Kalinga tattoo artist. I was adamant that I would never get one, however, as I have lived here and saw the beauty of the place and the people, I softened to the idea. 

Brenda, our guide and midwife at the Bugnay Maternity clinic

The hike there was beautiful and difficult with steep stairs to climb

Once arriving we met Whang Od the famous kalinga tattoo artist. At 93 years old she had wrinkles to match her age, but was strikingly beautiful. I felt comfortable with her and knew that I wanted to have a piece of her art work. I felt it would be an honor to be apart of this ancient tradition.

I picked out a picture of one I liked and she drew part of it on. Before I knew it she was starting to tap. There was no going back at that point.

When I told her where I wanted it, she warned me that the side of the foot is very painful. She was not lying! 

At the top of the foot I could hand the pain and even took a few pictures.  

As she rounded the corner it became much more painful. It was hard to focus or watch. 

The pain just increased until I couldn't look at all. If I would have kept looking I might have moved my foot away without thinking. 

The taping had a definite rhythm and at the top kind of felt like bee stings. I can't really describe the pain on the sides. 

I am happy to say that during the whole process I didn't shed one tear. It was quite fascinating. The whole tattoo took about an hour to complete. She used a thorn and ash for ink. 

The finished work directly after she was done. I love it! 

Whang Od and myself after she finished. 

The sun was setting as we hiked out. I couldn't put my shoes on, so I had to make the hike barefoot.  But the pain didn't set in until a little bit later so the hike wasn't so bad. 

Getting a tattoo is something I never thought I would do. But things change, people change and I change. I think I will always view this tattoo as a sign that change is OK and something that God allows for. I love the beauty, adventure & remembrance that is wrapped up in this tattoo and some day when I am old and it is faded I know I will still remember this time and this place. I am sure my grandkids will enjoy my tales of adventure as well :)